Clutch control refers to the act of controlling the speed of a vehicle with a manual transmission by partially pulling the clutch plate, using a clutch pedal instead of (or along with) the accelerator pedal. The purpose of the coupling is in part to allow such control; in particular, the coupling provides torque transfer between rotating shafts at different speeds. In the extreme, the clutch control is used in driving performance, such as starting from a dead stop with the engine generating maximum torque at high RPM.
Video Clutch control
Overview
With a really pressed clutch pedal or motorcycle lever pulled completely towards you, there is no direct connection between the engine and the driveshaft, so no power can pass from the engine to the driveshaft and wheels. With the pedal completely removed, there is full contact between the engine and the driveshaft, through the clutch plates, which means that the engine can apply power directly to the driveshaft. However, it is possible to have partially involved clutch plates, allowing the clutch to slip. As a result, only a fraction of the power from the engine reaches the driveshaft which is commonly known as Half the clutch.
Maps Clutch control
Benefits
There are benefits for the use of clutch controls in certain situations:
Low gear and low speed
When the car is in first gear, small variations in engine speed translate to major changes in engine acceleration and braking. However, with the combination of clutch control and the careful use of engine speed, a much smoother ride can be achieved by allowing the clutch to slip. Variations in engine revs do not immediately translate into changes in rotation speed of the drive shaft, but the friction on the clutch plate allows the drive shaft to gradually equate to the engine speed.
At a certain point while lifting the clutch gently, the car will start moving when the clutch begins to slip, referred to as the biting point. Here, accelerator pedals should be pressed slowly to slowly increase the speed of the car. Once the car reaches the appropriate speed, the clutch can be fully engaged and the speed can then be controlled either by varying the speed of the engine or by partially removing the clutch again if necessary.
The use of this particular clutch control is often taught to learn drivers as a way to control acceleration when pulling out of a total stop or while driving at a very slow speed while minimizing the possibility of stalling the machine.
Uphill start
- For mechanical help to the start of the hill, see Hill-holder and Hill Start Assist
When pulling away on an uphill slope, the chances of stalling the engine are bigger, and as a result will be useful to engage the clutch more slowly than normal while doing higher revving than usual.
Bad road conditions
In poor road conditions, especially snow or ice, it is advisable to pull the teeth as high as possible to minimize torque on the wheels and thus retain traction by road. Withdrawing requires an increasingly slow clutch involvement as the teeth increase, and in high gear it is necessary to clutch slowly to avoid the increased risk of stalled engines, or, in case of adverse weather conditions, spin the wheel.
Balancing the clutch
Usually, when the vehicle is stationary on an uphill slope, it is necessary to use the handbrake along with the clutch control to prevent the vehicle from rolling backwards when pulling away. However, in situations where the vehicle must be stopped briefly, for example in slow moving traffic, the clutch can be used to balance the uphill power of the engine with a decreased force of gravity. The advantage of this is that no hand or foot brake is required, and the driver can pull faster, and sometimes even the accelerator is used with partial coupling because the clutch just can not handle it that way. steep incline and otherwise the machine will just break down. Using this option will spend the clutch faster but on some steep inclines with stop-start moving traffic, it is the easiest option because using a hand brake will take some time.
Deceleration
Usually with motorcycles and in motor sports, the clutch is often used to facilitate the use of resistance from rotary engines at high speeds to slow down the vehicle faster, often accompanied by normal braking. This can be achieved by placing vehicles in gear that would normally be too low for the speed and momentum of the current vehicle and by involving partial coupling. When this happens, momentum energy from the inertia of the vehicle is taken to rotate the engine as close as possible to its maximum capability. When the vehicle slows down, the clutch can be removed further to transfer more energy for the engine to spin as fast as possible. However, this method causes excessive clutch wear, and can result in heavy engine damage or wheel locking if the clutch is removed unexpectedly.
A better method is to lower the lower gear which will rotate the engine within the RPM limit, and use the throttle to "Rev match" the engine to the speed of the road before it releases the clutch completely. Effective engine braking can still be achieved with little or no excessive clutch wear.
Once the clutch is fully released and the vehicle has slowed down some, this cycle continues down through the gears to help further deceleration. If the clutch is controlled incorrectly currently being attempted, extra damage or wear to the engine and gear is possible, as well as the risk of locked wheels and loss of proper vehicle control.
Problem
Even the normal use of clutch control increases the wear (and decreases the life span) of the coupling. The use of excessive clutch control or "clutch driving" will cause further damage.
Long-term use
While the use of clutch control at low speeds can be used to gain better acceleration and braking controls, once the car has picked up enough speed, the clutch must be fully engaged (the pedal is removed).
Excessive machine revolution
Overloading the machine while using clutch controls, or keeping the partially engaged clutches while accelerating with the accelerator, can cause unnecessary damage to the clutch.
Inserting clutch
Throwing a clutch (sometimes referred to as clutch feather ) is a term used by automotive enthusiasts to describe when a driver alternately applies and releases the clutch to achieve multiple car movements. This is called slipping because the clutch plate will slip to the flywheel surface when such action is performed. Throwing the clutch is known to be hard on the clutch surface because the shear friction is made.
Drivers can often see the clutch slip as they try to stay still on the hill without using neutral and brakes. They apply clutch to climb a bit, then release to roll back, then apply again, etc. To keep the car in the same place. With enough practice, back and forth is no longer necessary. Applying the correct amount of clutch and throttle pressure causes enough power from the engine to resist gravity and keep the vehicle stationary (See Balancing the clutch). The alternative to this technique staying silent on the hill will put the vehicle in neutral and apply the brakes.
Throwing clutch is a popular term in drag racing culture and is done when launching a car, usually in drag races. Some argue that the clutch slip is the best way to launch a front-wheel drive vehicle (FWD) because it prevents torsional driving experienced by many FWD cars when too much power is put into the front wheels.
Riding the clutch
In vehicles with manual transmission, riding a clutch refers to the practice of not having to keep the clutch partially detached. This causes the clutch can not fully engage with the flywheel and hence causes premature wear on the disk and flywheel.
A common example of riding a clutch is to maintain continuous pressure on the clutch pedals while driving, such as when the driver usually puts his feet on the clutch pedal instead of on the floor board or the die pedal. Although this small pressure is not sufficient to allow the clutch disc itself to slip, it is sufficient to keep the release of the bearing against the release spring. This causes the pads to keep spinning, leading to early bearing failure.
When shifting properly, the driver "shifts" to the other gear and then releases pressure on the clutch pedal to re-engage the engine to the driveshaft. If the pedal is released quickly, a certain movement can be felt when the engine and the driveshaft are re-engaging and the speed equalizes. However, if the clutch is released slowly, the clutch disc will "slip" on the flywheel; This friction allows the engine to transition more smoothly to its new rotational speed. Such routine slippage causes wear on analog coupling with wear on the brake pad when it stops. Some wear can not be avoided, but with better grasping techniques, this can be minimized by releasing the clutch as close to the engine speed as possible for the gear and vehicle speed. When gearing up, this will involve allowing the engine speed to fall. Conversely, when downshifting, increasing engine speed with the accelerator before releasing the clutch will result in a smoother transition and minimal clutch wear.
Clutch riding occurs when the driver does not completely release the clutch pedal. This produces the clutch disc slipping against the flywheel and some of the engine power is not transferred to the drive and wheel carts. Although inefficient, most drivers routinely use this technique effectively when driving in reverse (because it fully involves reverse gear producing speeds too large for short-distance trips) or in stop-and-go traffic (as it is easier to control the throttle and acceleration at very slow speed).
Riding a clutch should not be confused with "freewheeling" or "glide", where a fully-pressed clutch allows the car to roll either downhill or from inertia. While this does not damage the car, this can be regarded as a dangerous way to drive because it is one of the ability to speed up quickly if needed. However, it is a common practice to enter the parking lot or pass through speed bumps through inertia.
See also
- Double coupling (technique)
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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