Obi (? , ??) is a sash for traditional Japanese clothing, keikogi (uniform for Japanese martial arts), and parts of clothing kimono .
The obi for a somewhat narrow male kimono, 10 cm wide (3.9 inches width), but the obi woman's formalities can reach 30 centimeters (12 inches) and more. from 4 meters (13 feet) long. Currently, wide and decorative women obi do not make kimono closed; this is done with different undersash and ribbons worn under obi . The obi itself often requires the use of stiffener and ribbon for shape and decoration definitions.
There are many types of obi , mostly for women: width obi made of brocade and narrower, simpler obi for everyday wear. The obi is the most colorful and most colorful for unmarried young women. Contemporary women obi are very striking accessories, sometimes even more than the kimono's own robe. A good formal obi may cost more than the rest of the clothes.
Obi is categorized by design, formality, material, and use. Informal obi is narrower and shorter.
Video Obi (sash)
Histori
In the early days, obi is a strap or ribbon like a sling, about 8 cm (3.1 inches) in width. Obi men and women alike. At the beginning of the 17th century, both women and men wore obi ribbons. In the 1680s, the width of the female obi was twice the size of the original. In obi 1730s women are about 25 centimeters (9.8 inches) wide, and at the turn of the 19th century it is as wide as 30 cm (12 inches). At that time, separate ribbons and wires were needed to hold the obi in place. Obi men most in the 1730s, about 16 cm (6.3 inches).
Before the Edo period, which began in 1600, the female cosmetist robe was tied with a narrow belt on the hip. How to attach a large sleeve to the body of the clothing will prevent the use of a wider obi. As the cosode arm began to grow wide (ie long) at the beginning of the Edo period, the obi widened as well. There are two reasons for this: first, to maintain aesthetic balance of clothes, longer arms need a wider sash to accompany them; secondly, unlike today (where they are only customary for unmarried women) married women also wore long-arm kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without allowing open armpits will severely inhibit movement. This axillary opening in turn makes room for a wider obi.
Initially, all the obi tied up in front. Later, the mode starts affecting the position of the knot, and the obi can be tied sideways or backwards. As the obi grows wider, the knots grow larger, and it becomes complicated to tie the obi in front. At the end of the 17th century the obi were mostly tied behind. However, the habit did not become established before the beginning of the 20th century.
By the end of the 18th century it was fashionable for a female cosode to have too long a looseness that was allowed to walk behind when at home. To move out, the excess fabric is tied under the obi with a wide cloth band called shigoki obi . Contemporary Kimono are made as long, but seams are not allowed to be traced; Excess fabric is tied to the hip, forming a fold called ohashori . Shigoki obi is still used, but only for decorative purposes.
The most formal obi will become obsolete. The heavy and long maru obi is currently only used by maiko and bride as part of their wedding dress. The lighter fukuro obi has replaced maru obi. Initially everyday Nagoya obi is the most common obi currently in use, and the more luxurious one can even be accepted as part of semi-ceremonial clothing. The use of musubi , or decorative nodes, has also narrowed so that women tie their obi almost exclusively with the taiko musubi , "drum knots". Tsuke obi with ready-made nodes is also increasingly popular.
Tatsumura Textile located at Nishijin in Kyoto is the current manufacturing center. Founded by Heizo Tatsumura I in the 19th century, he is famous for making some of the most luxurious obi . Among his students studying design is a painter then Insh? D? Moto. The technique of Nishijin-ori is intricately woven and can have a three-dimensional effect and can cost up to 1 Million Yen.
"Kimono Institute" was founded by Kazuko Hattori in the 20th century and teaches how to tie obi and wear it properly.
Maps Obi (sash)
Obi woman
Obi width of the woman folded into two when worn, with a width of about 15 cm (5.9 inches) to 20 cm (7.9 inches). It is considered elegant to bind the obi so that the width is folded in harmony with the wearer's body dimensions. Usually this means about a tenth of its height. The full width of the obi is only in the decorative knot, musubi .
Obi a woman worn in a fancy musubi knot. There are ten ways to tie obi, and different knots are suitable for different occasions and kimono.
Formal obes worn by men are much narrower than women (width about 10 cm (3.9 inches) at most). Obi men are worn in a much simpler way than women: the obi is wrapped around the waist, under the belly and tied with a simple knot behind.
Male obi type
- Heko obi ( ??? , "obi for men between 15 and 25") is a soft and informal obi, free flowing and made of tie-dyed fabric, made of silk, habutai, cotton, or other. It's very informally tied up. Adult male hoops are along normal obi at 350 cm (11.5 feet) to 400 cm (13 feet), but are relatively wide by 74 cm (29 inches). Adult men wear only heko obi at home, but young boys can wear them in public, for example at summer festivals with yukata.
- Kaku obi ( ?? , "oblique obi") is another obi used by men. A formal stiff obi is about 10 centimeters (3.9 inches) wide and 400 centimeters (13 ft) in length and depending on the material, colors and patterns are suitable for any and all occasions of everyday wear to a close relatives cemetery. An oblique obi is usually made of ori hakata (and thus Hakata obi, which has long lines), or from pongee sutras, silk screenings, silk damasks. It is used in simple kai-no-kuchi knots.
Accessories
A netsuke is a hanging decoration of obi worn by men.
Children's Obi
Children wear a kimono especially for the Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-Three) celebration, when girls aged three and seven and five-year-old boys are celebrated. Children's kimono outfits resemble adults and their parts are essentially miniature versions of adult pieces. Youngest children wear a soft, scarf-like obi.
Type of child obi
- Sanjaku obi ( ???, ??????? , "three-legged obi") is a type of male obi. Named for its length, three old Japanese feet ( ?? , about 37.9 centimeters (14.9 inches)) . Obi is sometimes called just sanjaku ( ?? ) . During the Edo period, it was popular among the public as an obi for kimono like yukata because of its ease of use. According to some theories, my sage obib comes from a scarf of the same length, which is folded and used as a sling. A sanjaku obi usually shaped like a stiff obi, narrow and with short stitches. Usually made of soft fabrics such as cotton. Because of its shortness, my sage obi is tied in musubi coma , which is very similar to square node.
- Shigoki-obi ( ???? ) is a utility utility when following a kimono, and is used to bind excess length when out. Currently only the function of a decorative shimoki obi. This is part of a 7-year-old girl's outfit to celebrate Shichi-Go-San.
- Tsuke obi is a popular obi used for children because of its ease of use. There are even official obi tsuke available for children. Obi is in accordance with the fukuro obi on the scale of formality.
Obi in martial arts
Many Japanese martial arts featuring obi as part of their Gi. Obi is often made from thick cotton and about 5 cm (2.0 inches) wide. The obi martial art is most commonly used in knots coma-musubi ; in practice where hakama is used, obi is tied in another way.
In many martial arts the color of obi signifies the skill level of the wearer. Usually the color starts from the beginner white and ends with the advanced black color, or the red and white colors of the master. When the sportswear includes hakama, the color of the obi has no meaning.
Knot (musubi)
The knot of the obi is called musubi ( ??, ??? , literally "knot") . These days, women's knots often do not keep the obi in place as much as it serves as a large decorative piece in the back. The actual knot is usually supported by a number of accessories: pads, scarves and ropes. When wearing an obi, especially when unassisted, there is a need for some extra transient bands.
There are hundreds of decorative knots and they often represent flowers or birds. Like everything in a kimono outfit, the knots are governed by a number of unwritten rules of propriety. Generally a more complicated and striking knot is for unmarried young women in a festive, quieter situation for married or mature women or for use in ceremonial situations.
Source of the article : Wikipedia
0 Comments